Noumea, New Caledonia – The streets of Noumea, the capital of New Caledonia, have been cleared of litter, but charred buildings remain as a reminder of the unrest that shook this French territory in the South Pacific nearly three months ago. Protests in May were triggered by Paris’ support for electoral reforms, which advocates for independence claimed would dilute the influence of the indigenous Kanak population at the ballot box. Although the reform plan is currently on hold, there are few signs that the political divides exposed by the protests have lessened.

“It is very difficult for the Kanak people to live here. The French government still has a colonial strategy in New Caledonia and does not respect the political situation,” stated Alain, a member of the Kanak and Socialist National Liberation Front (Front de Libération Nationale Kanak et Socialiste, FLNKS), who wished to remain anonymous for security reasons.

In mid-May, demonstrations erupted among independence supporters across the islands in response to reforms approved by the National Assembly in Paris aimed at expanding New Caledonia’s voter list to include approximately 25,000 new, predominantly European immigrants. Clashes broke out between police and activists in Noumea, with both private homes and public and commercial buildings being set on fire.

Pro-independence Prime Minister Louis Mapou called for an end to the unrest and urged citizens to “use every possible means to restore reason and calm.” The unrest subsided after French President Emmanuel Macron agreed on June 12 to suspend the proposed reforms, but subsequent arrests and the transfer of eight pro-independence leaders to prisons in France reignited tensions. According to the New Caledonia Chamber of Commerce, ten lives were lost, tourists fled the scene, and the estimated damages exceeded $1 billion.

In some suburbs of the city, residents continue to maintain blockades on their streets. In Magenta, barricades have been constructed from hastily gathered materials such as barbed wire, wooden planks, furniture, and even refrigerators. Some of these blockades are manned by local groups who sit under road signs and take responsibility for controlling traffic in and out of the area.

“I believe we have lost our hope, a vision for what can be in New Caledonia,” said Catherine Ris, a professor of economics and president of the University of New Caledonia. She added that the consequences of the crisis will be profound in the coming months, with an anticipated increase in poverty in the city.

For many Kanaks, who make up about 40 percent of the population of approximately 290,000, peace will only be achievable when their grievances are addressed. New Caledonia, which was formerly a French colony, is now an “overseas territory” with greater autonomy.

Elections were held this year that allowed indigenous candidates to advance their representation in Paris. While new elections among pro-French politicians retained their positions, Kanak leader Emmanuel Tjibaou won his electoral district with 57 percent of the vote. Tjibaou described the election results as “proof that democracy is alive” in New Caledonia.

Despite the unrest, it remains unclear what the future holds for this territory. “No one can say today how this will end, or when,” Ris concluded. “We are truly in a huge context of instability and uncertainty.”